New oil and autumn markets in Bordighera
Culinary tradition.
In November the Riviera di Ponente changes pace. The days remain mild, the sea is calm, and in the oil mills of the territory one of the most beautiful moments of the year is celebrated: the harvest of Taggiasca olives, the variety that has been drawing the sides of our hills for centuries and gives the oil of the Ponente its delicate and unmistakable taste.
Precisely in these weeks the new oil arrives: just crushed, very green, scented with grass and artichoke. Those who pass by Bordighera in November find it in the shops and on the stalls, often next to the Taggiasca olives in pickle, sweet and fleshy, perfect for an aperitif or for a simple plate of bread and oil.
The best way to taste all this is the markets. In Bordighera the Covered Market in Piazza Garibaldi opens on Thursday and Saturday mornings: seasonal fruits and vegetables, cheeses, bread and still hot focaccia. On Friday, a train of a few minutes is enough to reach Ventimiglia and its large weekly market along the Roia, one of the most famous on the Riviera: fruit and spice stalls, footwear, fabrics and, of course, Ligurian products. In the cold season the stalls stay up until 4 pm, and the covered market of Ventimiglia opens every day from 7 am to 7 pm.
At the table November is the month of land and sea cuisine: mushrooms, first artichokes, anchovies and fragrant bread. But the real party is the simple one: a focaccia with new oil, a hot tea in front of the sunset that lights up the palm trees of the seafront.
A note for those who love traditions: in the inland valleys, from Bordighera to Taggia and Valle Argentina, many oil mills open their doors to visitors to show the grinding and make tastings. Just ask: here hospitality is at home.
If you have in mind a slow autumn break, made of morning markets, simple dinners and walks under the still good November sun, Bordighera is ready. And if you want to feel at home even when traveling, La Quiete in Centro, La Magnolia, Insapria and Sui Tetti are waiting for you in the historic heart of the city: the kitchens are equipped, and there is always room for a bottle of oil that you will have brought home from the market.
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